I started at the bottom of the door, using my hand to pry up the plastic enough to get the pliers in there. I had initially tried removing with hands, but I remembered I had panel clip pliers that I got from Harbor Freight: Panel Clip Pliers Step 3: Remove the Door Card | Return to Directoryīy some miracle, I didn't break a single panel clip during this process. Remove it and keep with others, this is the last screw holding on the door card Once the armrest is removed, there is another screw by the handle. To remove the armrest, pull up by the handle. Step 2: Remove Armrest | Return to Directory Under this panel, there is a screw by the lock switch, remove it and save it. Hopefully the orientation of the part makes sense, its as if opened like a book. I always find it helpful to see the tab locations behind panels, so I have tried to get pictures of of them. I have this small, flathead screwdriver that I used to get in there. This small plate behind the handle is removable and hides 1 of 2 screws that hold the door card on. Step 1: Remove Cover Behind Handle | Return to Directory Small Flat Head Screwdriver or pick set.I did pay for the part with my own money, this isn't a sponsorship or anything like that, but I did send the seller the write-up to share with others taking on this project. Parts are supposedly reconditioned with Toyota parts and have a lifetime warranty, just have to send in the core. Eventually the ad will expire, but the seller should still be there. I got a reconditioned actuator on ebay from the seller actuatorplus. After hearing about other failures, I decided new or reconditioned was going to be best. I really wanted to salvage from a junkyard because I've never been junkin before. My Passenger rear lock actuator was having trouble, so I replaced this one as well and have added some better pictures I grabbed from doing this the second time around This is the first real write-up I have done, so feel free to leave comments on picture size, quantity, description clarity, etc I've been riding around and unlocking manually from the drivers door, and its honestly terrible. I am not the original owner, but it didn't look like anyone else had been in that door, so I assume its original. While doing my research, I encountered others that had multiple actuator failures, this one appears to have lasted all 205k. Hello All, I recently replaced the drivers rear door lock actuator on my 2005 sr5 and took some pictures along the way. In case anything happens to this thread, it has been saved in the WayBack Machine:
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